The idea is to become an old wizard; to live a long and fruitful life and have family and be healthy and enjoy the ride. And speaking of the ride, why not let it rip, at least a little bit? Everyone I know who's really stoked about getting out of bed in the morning does that to some extent.

Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul (And, of Course, Surfing) (ed. Rodale, 2010) - ISBN: 9781609611026