It's hard for me to describe the joy I felt after I stood up and rode wave in for the first time after the attack. I was incredibly thankful and happy inside. The tiny bit of doubt that would sometimes tell me you'll never surf again was gone in one wave.
Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board (ed. Simon and Schuster, 2004) - ISBN: 9780743499224